There are a number of different descenders on the market. Which one should you
use and why?
Obviously there's no right answer to this question. It depends on your intended use.
There are a lot of useful attributes that a descender can have. Most descenders will only
be strong in a few of these attributes.
If you are doing wet canyons, the key attribute you probably want in a descender is
quick release. The other attributes can still be important, but most are secondary.
If you are using the descender for general abseiling, particularly long descents, a
balance of attributes is probably best. Heat dissipation, in line, variable speed and easy
lock off are all useful to have.
The table below discusses what the important attributes are. Each of the commonly used
canyoning descenders in the box to the right is discussed in more detail on their own
page.
| Safe |
A descender is a device in which you often trust your life. Most
descenders have certain precautions that need to be taken, and in some cases equipment is
used in a less than ideal way. These do not necessarily make the descender unsafe.
However, I have tried to mention these safety issues in the discussion about each device
so that you are aware of some of them. |
| Quick release |
In a canyon situation it is often important to be able to detach from the
rope quickly. In general, if a descender can be attached to/detached from the rope without
having to unlock the carabiner gate then it is much quicker. In addition, if the carabiner
gate has to be unlocked, then there is a risk of dropping the device (which can be a major
problem if you are swimming in a pool!) |
| In line |
Descenders where the rope runs straight through are normally preferable
to those where the rope is twisted |
| Light weight |
The less weight you have to carrry the better |
| Variable speed |
It is an advantage to be able to change the speed of descent depending on
the conditions of the abseil, and the gear you have to carry. Note that with practically
any device, the rope can be clipped back through the main carabiner to slow the speed, so
I have not mentioned this in individual descriptions. However this may reduce the ability
to quickly release. |
| Variable speed during descent |
Some descenders allow you to change the speed of descent during the
descent itself |
| Easy to lock off |
A descender which is easy to lock off is an advantage, as sometimes you
need to stop and sort out tangles in the rope etc. You can often do a simple lock off by
looping the rope around your leg or bum. However, if the knot or tangle is just below you,
this is not convenient. |
| Rescue use |
Rarely important, but when it is, it may be vital. Some descenders are
better suited to rescue use than others. Rescue use in this case refers to the need to
carry an additional person down an abseil, eg as the result of them becoming unconscious. |
| Belay use |
If you need to set up a top belay, or someone needs to climb for an exit
then some descenders can double as a belay device |
| Heat dissipation |
Descenders work through friction, and on long descents they heat up. With
poor heat dissipation, the descender can heat up so much that it damages the rope. Heat
dissipation improves with surface area. This usually means that larger/heavier devices are
better heat dissipators, but some devices are designed to have a high surface area to
weight ratio. Heat dissipation is only a minor issue in canyoning, assuming the rope is
wet. |
Tom Brennan : website@ozultimate.com
: updated 20030912 |